Crochet Increase Calculator
Type your current stitch count and where you want to end up. Get back one line of copy-ready instructions — increases or decreases spaced as evenly as the math allows, for flat rows or working in the round.
How the even-spacing math works
Say you have n stitches and want to add k. Each increase (two single crochet worked into one stitch) uses up one of your existing stitches, so the row splits into k blocks that together use all n stitches. The calculator makes those blocks as equal as possible — sizes only ever differ by one — and when n doesn’t divide evenly, it spreads the bigger blocks through the row instead of dumping them at the end.
Worked examples you can check by hand:
- 60 → 66 in the round. Six increases over 60 stitches means blocks of 10:
Rnd: *Sc 9, inc* repeat 6 times. (60 sts → 66 sts) - 66 → 60 in the round. Six decreases; each sc2tog eats two stitches, so blocks of 11:
Rnd: *Sc 9, sc2tog* repeat 6 times. (66 sts → 60 sts) - 50 → 57 flat. Seven increases over 50 stitches won’t divide evenly. The calculator splits the leftover across the row and halves the first plain run so the edges stay symmetric:
Row: Sc 3, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 7, inc, sc 3. (50 sts → 57 sts)
Decreasing evenly
Decreases work the same way, with one twist: a sc2tog consumes two stitches instead of one. That’s why you can’t decrease more than half your stitch count in a single row — there simply aren’t enough stitches to feed every sc2tog. If the calculator tells you a decrease is impossible, split it across two rows: take out roughly half now, work one row plain, then run the calculator again for the rest.
Flat rows vs. working in the round
Flat rows: the calculator halves the first plain block and moves the other half to the end of the row. Your increases sit symmetrically, and neither edge gets a lump — which matters when you seam pieces together.
In the round: the row is a loop, so symmetry at the “edges” doesn’t apply and you get clean repeating blocks. One thing the math can’t fix: if you start every round’s increases at the same stitch, the increase points stack into a visible ridge or corner. The fix is staggered increases — start each new round’s sequence a couple of stitches later than the last. Amigurumi spheres look noticeably rounder with this one habit.
Common stitch counts
The standard amigurumi flat circle adds 6 stitches per round:
| Round | Instruction | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | 6 |
| 2 | inc in every st | 12 |
| 3 | *sc 1, inc* ×6 | 18 |
| 4 | *sc 2, inc* ×6 | 24 |
| 5 | *sc 3, inc* ×6 | 30 |
| 6 | *sc 4, inc* ×6 | 36 |
| 7 | *sc 5, inc* ×6 | 42 |
| 8 | *sc 6, inc* ×6 | 48 |
Off-pattern counts — say your gauge swatch says 45 stitches but the pattern is written for 48 — are exactly what the calculator above is for.
FAQ
What does “increase evenly across the row” mean?
The pattern wants you to add a set number of stitches, but spread out so the fabric grows without lumps or a sudden flare. Instead of working all increases in one spot, you space them at regular intervals. This calculator does the interval math and prints the exact sequence.
How do I increase in the round without a visible ridge?
Stacking increases in the same position every round creates a seam. Shift the starting point of your increases by a few stitches each round — see “staggered increases” above.
What stitch counts do amigurumi circles use?
6 stitches in a magic ring, plus 6 per round: 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42, 48. The table above lists each round.
Can I use this for knitting?
The spacing math is identical, but the output uses US crochet terms. Read “inc” as M1/KFB and “sc2tog” as k2tog and the numbers carry over.
US or UK terms?
US terms throughout. A US single crochet (sc) is a UK double crochet (dc) — swap the words, keep the numbers.